food rage

This week I interviewed Matt Brannan, an expert on Portland and Food. Brannan has lived in Portland since 2003, and has seen some notable changes in how restaurants have evolved; both good and bad.

“Everything is getting more expensive. Food prices, real estate and giving staff livable wages,” Brannan told me after I asked what has changed for the worse. Brannan isn’t lying; the cost of dining has increased so much in the last five years that when people go out to dine they expect more. But it’s different in Portland.

“Service workers are now getting paid livable wages, they have insurance built-in… It doesn’t feel performative either, you can tell by the service you get when dining now.” Hospitality has changed a lot too. A dining experience that feels personable is important now more than ever. When things get bad in some places, they get better in others.

I asked Brannan about what differentiates Portland from other cities, even Eugene, and this is what he had to say: “It’s the location. The Willamette Valley offers everything from hops to cows. Chefs in Portland are able to travel 20 minutes outside of town and get the best quality meat,”. The Willamette Valley is such an amazing food source for chefs in Portland, and strengthens the quality of the food overall.

The location between mountains and the ocean gives chefs opportunities to locally source fresh food.

“What has started in the Pacific Northwest, specifically Portland, that has spread nationwide?” “Food carts”. Brannan quickly replied. I understood what he meant too. Recently, I was visiting a friend in Los Angeles, and she was ecstatic to take me to a food hall. When she described the concept to me, I had to pretend to be shocked. It’s such a good concept though; it offers something for everyone.

I always ask people in interviews: “What should I have asked you?” and Brannan told me his trend predictions (which I always love). “Smaller portions with customizable menus… Seasonal offerings feel very 15 years ago, but I can see them coming into play now, more than ever.” What Brannan is referring to is, menus that change with seasons.

Locally sourced produce is only in season when it is, which gives restaurants an opportunity to change their menus. Small customizable menus help the dining experience as well as prevent food waste.

Another notable change of the restaurant scene in Portland was QR code menus. “I’m sick of doing the work myself! I thought this would end with Covid,” Brannan told me. I agree with Brannan, I find going out to dine is supposed to be an enjoyable experience. The diner doesn’t also want to be the server. It is really nice to have a conversation with a passionate server.